Making A Bespoke Shirt: The Creative Process

Client Consultation: What Happens

Once the client has approached me to create a bespoke shirt, I discuss what they would like. In my most recent commission, the client was happy for me to select a range of shirt fabrics from my stock, in different checks and colours. Their main brief was for plain or checked shirts that were blue, denim or indigo.

I was also given some measurements.

Shapes, Composition and Placement of Elements

Once the fabrics were verified by the client, the next step was to collaborate on the design. As the client had already seen my shirts on this website and seen some of my shirts physically, they were very happy to trust me to go ahead with the shirt. However, I feel clients should be involved in the whole process and in this case, I sent them design options. In regards to placement and shapes, I can offer different options.

In most cases I play around with different size checks, colour, composition, squares, rectangles and the signature, circle, making sure, these elements work together aesthetically. Once the client is happy I go ahead and start to assemble the shirt. The client was very happy to give me creative autonomy.

Sewing and Construction

I use applique, using edge stitching and a bonding fabric to apply the fabric shapes to the shirt. In traditional applique the edges of the shapes are zig-zagged, but I personally find this not very aesthetic and a single row of edge stitching, fits with the look I want to achieve. This ensures the applique is durable, wrinkle free and will withstand machine washing, although, I do recommend washing by hand. There will always be a slight fraying at the edge of the applique shapes, this adds character to the shirt.

Creating a bespoke shirt for a recent client collaboration.

Craftsmanship

As a designer maker, craftsmanship, attention to detail and quality of construction are very important to me. All my shirts are unique and one-off designs, well made and as a result have a £100.00 price tag. As a former fashion technician and lecturer, I have gained many years of experience in the industry and quality of make is very important to me and I like to pass this ethos onto my students.  I want my shirts to be a investment. A sustainable addition to your wardrobe.

Edge Stitching

I prefer to work with cotton shirts that are well made. When I go to kilo sales or charity shops, I tend to go for labels such as Reiss, Jaeger, Marks and Spenser, Boss, Next, Carhart, Levi's and Superdry. It all depends on the quality of make and if the shirt look pristine and in very good condition.

I am very happy to work items supplied by the client, or a combination from my stock or the client's. Using something from the client adds a more personal, emotional attachment to the bespoke shirt.

Ellen MacArthur foundation: Design products to be used more and for longer

https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/articles/designing-products-to-be-used-more-and-for-longer